EditorialThe xuxo helado, a churro-croissant cone sporting a generous topknot of soft-serve, at Mercado Little Spain in New York, May 5, 2023. (Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)
EditorialSoft-serve pineapple sorbet at Corner Bar, on the Ground level of the Nine Orchard Hotel in Manhattan, Dec. 29, 2022. (Karsten Moran/The New York Times)