Four centuries ago coffee was all but unknown beyond the Horn of Africa and Southern Arabia; the area from which a small; berry-bearing tree; known to science as coffee arabica; first sprang. The unassuming plant which plays so important a part in our lives today; is thought to be indigenous to the Kaffa region of highland Ethipia -- from which the name 'coffee' may originate; others argue that it derives from its Arabic name qahwa. Certainly the earliest known legend concerning coffee -- still recounted today in the suqs; or markets; of Southern Arabia -- tells how an Arab goatherd called Kaldi; whilst out tending his flock; noted their queer behaviour on eating certain small berries. Kaldi tried them himself; liked the mild sense of euphoria they induced; and told his companions.

Within a short time -- probably in the early 15th century -- the wild coffee plant had been introduced to the highlands of Yemen; and was being cultivated and selectively bred in a process which would eventually create the many diverse types of bean now available. Blue Mountain from Jamaica; Kenyan from East Africa; Java from Indonesia; Brasilica from Brazil -- all these famous blends derive originally from Kaldi's stunted shrubs; but the godfather of them all is Mocha. Pictures From Asia David Henley